Diamond Education

Shape is the first decision most people make, and the one that changes a ring's character most. Here is what each one does.

Round brilliant

Fifty-eight facets engineered for maximum brightness. The most forgiving shape — it hides colour and inclusions better than any other, and it suits almost every setting. If someone has no strong opinion, this is usually the answer.

Oval

A brilliant cut stretched lengthwise. It carries much of the round's sparkle while looking larger for its weight, and the elongation flatters the finger. Some ovals show a faint bow-tie shadow across the centre; a well-cut stone minimises it.

Emerald cut

Step-cut rather than brilliant, so instead of sparkle you get long flashes of light and depth — like looking into clear water. It is the most architectural shape, and the least forgiving: clarity shows, because there are fewer facets to hide behind.

Marquise

Pointed at both ends, dramatic, and the most efficient shape for looking large. It elongates the finger more than anything else. The points are the vulnerable part, which is why they are usually protected by prongs.

Cushion

A square or rectangular cut with rounded corners. Softer than a princess cut, warmer than a round, with a slightly antique feel. Elongated cushions read closer to an oval.

Pear

Round at one end, pointed at the other. Worn with the point toward the fingernail it lengthens the hand considerably. Symmetry matters here more than in most shapes — the point should line up with the centre of the rounded end.

Radiant

A brilliant-faceted stone in a rectangular outline with cropped corners. It gives you the outline of an emerald cut with the sparkle of a round, and it is more forgiving of colour than a step cut.

Asscher

Square, step-cut, with concentric facets that draw the eye inward. Distinctly Art Deco. Like the emerald cut, it rewards a clean stone.

Choosing

Shape is personal and there is no correct answer. If you are unsure, look at the same setting in two shapes side by side — the difference is usually obvious once you see it. Ask us and we will show you what we have.

Related

Our Lab-Grown Diamond Guide covers certification and the four Cs.